Alpe d'Huez is one of a trio of top ski resorts in L'Oisans region in southeastern France. Dating back to 1936, it's one of the county's oldest and also boasts Europe's longest black run.
There are more than 150 different ski stations to choose from in the French Alps, but few can match the trio of Alpe d'Huez, Les Deux Alpes and La Grave in terms of superlatives. Located in the region of L'Oisans, between the northern and southern Alps in southeastern France, all three offer a huge range of winter experiences, catering to all types of travellers.
Alpe d'Huez was one of the first ski resorts in France. Founded in 1936, it now provides 150 miles of slopes and 70 ski lifts, with enjoyable skiing for all experience levels, as well as a vibrant apres-ski scene. Less than 20 miles south, Les Deux Alpes welcomed its first ski lift in 1946, but its roots date back to the 1930s, when building began on the two mountain pastures of Mont de Lans and Vénosc. The resort's descents span over 7,500ft, peaking with glacier skiing on the enormous Deux Alpes Glacier. Further east, La Grave is a hidden gem for freeriding -- its reputation for serious off-piste often discussed over a panaché (a French shandy made with light beer and lemonade). Whether you're planning a group getaway, a family-friendly trip or an off-piste adventure, find the ski resort that's right for you this season.
If there's a single reason to ski at Alpe d'Huez, the Sarenne run is surely it. Europe's longest black run (10 miles), it descends over 7,500ft from the highest point of the ski area, Pic Blanc, at 10,800ft. La Sarenne may be the resort's claim to fame, but with plenty of green and blue pistes -- such as the Marcel's Farm green run, accessible via a 10-minute lift ride -- Alpe d'Huez is also a great place to strap on skis for the first time. Intermediate-level skiers will appreciate the variety, too. Whiteout days are infrequent at Alpe d'Huez, which is nicknamed 'the island in the sun' for its 300 annual bluebird days (a clear day with blue skies). The frequently clear weather makes for breathtaking views -- especially from the apex of the station -- and prime apres-ski conditions.
The resort is always lively, particularly at Alpine institution La Folie Douce. However, at no point is Alpe d'Huez livelier than during Tomorrowland Winter, the snowy version of the legendary Belgian electronic music festival, which celebrates its fifth edition in March 2025. Many of the stages are outdoors, making for an unparalleled natural backdrop. Alpe d'Huez is packed with great restaurants, too. Enjoy a drink or bite to eat on the panoramic terrace at renowned on-mountain restaurant The Chantebise 2100. For a cosy dining experience, head to recently-renovated Le Strato (formerly L'Alaska) or rustic L'Authentique.
Stay at PopAlp Hotel, where the rooms are more colourful than the festival-goers' retro ski suits -- it suits smaller groups but promises unmissable views of the mountains. Or for a luxurious stay, book a room or suite at the chalet-style Hotel le Pic Blanc. A range of accommodation options are on offer at Hotel des Grandes Rousses, with large rooms, suites, lofts and chalets to choose from. Alpe d'Huez also has plenty of apartments and cottages available, perfect for large groups.
Les Deux Alpes may be nearing its centenary, but it's still the ultimate destination for those looking to chase an endless winter. The highest point sits at 11,800ft, on a glacier which can typically be skied from November to early July. When 75% of the pistes sit at more than 6,900ft high, a reliably long season is pretty much guaranteed. Quite the opposite of most ski stations, the runs at Les Deux Alpes get easier the higher you go -- beginner skiers can descend entirely blue runs for over 7,500ft, all the way from the glacier. Redevelopment work is currently underway on the station's Jandri lift, which will comfortably transport skiers from the resort to the glacier in just 17 minutes, significantly shortening the current journey time of 40 minutes.
Activities such as e-biking on snow, an Ice Cave complete with frozen sculptures of prehistoric creatures, and an assortment of snowshoeing routes will keep everyone in the family entertained -- as will Les Deux Alpes' world-renowned snowpark. There's also a picture-perfect panorama point at 11,800ft, La Passerelle du Belvédère des Écrins, which takes in many of the mountain range's highest peaks. Accessible by ski lift, enjoy the 360-degree view of the summits while you wait for your photo opportunity.
In town, head to Le Rustique for obscenely large but very tasty alpine fondues, or Les Mauvais Garçons for traditional mountain cuisine. For a more high-end dining experience, try Michelin-starred Le P'tit Polyte or the newly opened, funky and flamboyant, Monsieur K. Family-centric accommodation, such as self-catered chalets and apartments are plentiful at Les Deux Alpes, while hotels such as Chalet Mounier, Les Mélèzes and Côte Brune also offer large family rooms and suites.
Forget apres-ski and a cat's cradle piste plan -- La Grave isn't like other ski resorts. There's only one piste, for starters, but not because this is a tiny, low-level station. The rest is off-piste -- a long, quiet and adventurous route, which means that most skiers only do two or three runs down during the day. It has one long gondola in two parts to access the high-altitude glacier, and one small drag lift up top on the only groomed run.
The views from the top of La Grave are nothing short of spectacular, taking in the Écrins National Park and La Meije glacier, before plunging into the larch trees. Although it's not overly technical (despite its reputation), to tackle La Grave, you'll need to be a comfortable off-piste skier. And unless you're skiing with someone who knows the area well, it's best to hire a chaperone such as one of the certified high mountain guides at Snowlegend or the local guide office.
The pretty little town of La Grave itself is unpretentious, with no ultra-luxury accommodation, just convivial and comfortable hotels, guesthouses and inns. Hotel Castillan is among the best, with cosy rooms, a swimming pool and a sauna. Pack your own lunch -- the wild garlic goat's cheese from Fromagerie de Montagne is excellent -- and prepare to discover some of the best skiing in the Alps.